3D Printing
Printer reviews, filament, models, troubleshooting, multicolor printing and print farms.
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This reading list brings together items from the sources selected for 3D Printing. Open each item at its original source for the complete article, episode or video. This is a selection of current coverage, not a complete archive.
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Which printer is better: the Saturn 4 Ultra 16k or the RayForm RF-3024D 4k?
I’m new to 3D printing. I’m thinking about buying one in the future for dental use. But I’d like one that at least has the ability to print two models at the same time so I don’t have to keep emptying the tank all the time to use different resins. The RayForm printer caught my attention because, according to its catalog, it comes with 3 platforms and 3 different resin tanks. The first is a standard-sized platform and tank. The second is a dual platform and dual tank.
Stop Printing 3D Cubes Flat on the Bed
Portals: tinyurl.com/38pdkzuc Most people print 3D cubes flat on the build plate, but changing the print orientation can improve surface consistency and help you design better parts. Learn how to print cubes diagonally, add support under the corner, and chamfer the contact point to help prevent prints from detaching. 🔗 OTHER IMPORTANT LINKS 🔗 Connect to a 1000+ Machine 3D Print Service: Portals: tinyurl.com/38pdkzuc Teleport: tinyurl.com/38pdkzuc Need a Modeling Software? (Use Code: Slant3D) https://www.shapr3d.com/download?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=slant3d_affiliate Check out our website: https://www.slant3d.com/ Oil Sticks: tinyurl.com/5ftna32s Follow Slant 3D: Instagram ► https://www.instagram.com/slant3d About Slant 3D 🏭 High-Volume 3D Printing: Scalability Meets Flexibility Slant 3D's Giant 3D Print Farms that utilize 1000's of FDM 3D printers working 24/7 to offer limitless scalability and unparalleled flexibility. Whether it's 100 or 100,000 parts, our system can handle it reliably, while still allowing for real-time design updates, ensuring products evolve with the times. This adaptability is key in today's fast-paced world. We are one of the largest and most reliable 3D print services on the planet. 🌿 Sustainable Manufacturing: Eco-Friendly Efficiency Embrace a system that drastically reduces carbon emissions by eliminating carbon-intensive steps in the supply chain, such as global shipping and warehousing. Our approach minimizes this footprint, offering a more sustainable manufacturing option. ⚙️ Digital Warehouses: Parts On-Demand Think of print farms as a "Digital Warehouse", meaning we can store your parts digitally on a server rather than physically on a shelf. Parts are available on-demand, reducing the need for extensive physical inventory. Produced by Geometry Media #3DPrinting #3DPrintDesign #DesignFor3DPrinting #3DPrintingTips #FDMPrinting
Maker Faire Rome 2026: 400+ Stories Of Innovation, Creativity and Discovery
Maker Faire Rome, this October 25-27 is where imagination and creativity become reality; where the frontiers of innovation are made visible.
I have to be tweakin
My schools robotics club donated me a MK4 and i rebuilt the entire extruder, and bought a new hot end, it looks a little crude right now but once it passes these damn calibrations i’ll put the shrouds on. Why does it consistently keep failing the XY test, and all the belt tensions are in the range of “just right”. everything i’ve checked looks good so if you can provide any more things to check, it’d be helpful. and i’m also new to building 3d printers. submitted by /u/Foreign-Tax6761 [link] [comments]
How does manual swapping of filaments work on the Core One+ and Core One L+?
Hi, on the i3MK3S+, I just issue a filament change command at specific layers on the slicer and when the printer has reached those layers, I manually change the filament and press resume to continue the print job. How does it work on the Core One+ and Core One L+? Is it more difficult, time consuming and inconvenience because one has to do the manual unloading and loading through a long tube between the extruder and the filament spool while on the i3MK3S+, the spool is directly above and close to the extruder filament input hole?
WEBINAR: Industrial Quality within Reach: The Same HP MJF Technology, Now Built for Your Workspace and Budget
HP Multi Jet Fusion technology has long been associated with large-scale industrial production. With the new HP Multi Jet Fusion 1200, HP is bringing that same technology to a compact format designed for smaller workspaces and tighter budgets. In an
Strange blob chain issue on a print
Hey, I'm having a strange issue with blobs that chain together along an edge on a print. It's not normal stringing, so I don't believe it's moisture, but I could be wrong. See attached photo. The blob chain seems to start at the surface, and then subsequent layer lines attach a blob to the end of that blob chain. Very strange. Printer Model: Prusa Mini+ Slicer used: Prusa Slicer Filament material and brand: Prusament recycled PETG Nozzle temperature: 250C Bed temperature: 85C Layer height: 0.2mm
Tools falling out
I just finished my INDX installation last night (it took me weeks because I didn't get around to it / my head was not in a good place) and I'm doing some initial prints with it for a friend. Calibration went smoothly, and the wiper seems to be working perfectly, but I'm having a strange recurring issue where the printer will somehow drop a toolhead randomly (during a change, or before/after the print).
Any idea what might have happened?
I bought this printer used, it had some resin on the screen from a spill and some inside I had cleaned out. (Pictures 2-4) had made several prints without issue. I replaced the film and got another bottle of fast gray siraya noticed flaking starting to occur to varying degrees of severness the last 3 prints and went to trouble shoot and found I can no longer print a working set of cones of calibration and this was my first time using the exposure test to see the screen. I removed the screen protector and it is still present.
Founders INDX for Core 1 (g1)
All- I know there has been a lot of information on this, but I am getting ready to finally have 8-10 hours to get my INDX (8 up) installed on my Core 1. I have seen an updated version of the directions (user posted) that puts the Gen 2 in with the Gen 1, but I have not purchased anything with the Gen2. I have a few questions, I would appreciate any help before I start, since I have read conflicting info: 1-should I purchase the Gen2 upgrades first and then do them at the same time? What do I need to buy or just print?
Prusa mini screen flashing and motor knocking
Hi, I bought a used Prusa mini plus. Sometimes when printing the screen flashes white and I can hear weird motor knocking. I found forum post with problem exactly like mine but without solution. The printer is running latest firmware. Problem occurs when printing from usb/from Prusa connect/from Octoprint or even during startup.
ESP-SDR Can Now Transmit
Well, that was fast! Last week, we reported on two apparently simultaneous hacks using the 2.4 GHz radio inside many ESP32 variants that enabled raw access to the radio samples, turning it into a l
My first ever (failed) print!
I bought a used Anycubic Photon M3 + Elegoo 8k water washable space grey resin. The test print came out looking like a pancake lol. The print stuck pretty good to the FEP film. I haven't tuned any settings nor resin specific settings. Homed the printer using a regular piece of paper. Wouldn't mess with lubricating the film with WD40 just yet lol. This will be a fun journey finetuning everything! :D Any tips and tricks are appreciated! submitted by /u/Grandpa_Max [link] [comments]
Using A Waffle To Check The Health Of Your Wii U’s NAND Flash
Game consoles tend to have a weak spot or two that will take certain units out sooner than they would due to normal parts aging. In the case of the Wii U it’s the eMMC storage IC with the con
[Utah, USA] Corsair Dark Core rgb pro SE charging stand
Looking to have one of these made with wireless charging, let me know, thanks:) https://makerworld.com/en/models/190123-corsair-dark-core-rgb-pro-se-charging-stand#profileId-209853 https://thangs.com/designer/Charming%20Lime/3d-model/Corsair%20Dark%20Core%20Wireless%20Charging%20Stand%20with%20RGB%20lighting-1267946 It goes beyond just printing though for each so do make sure to take a look. submitted by /u/Fabulous-Craft-6471 [link] [comments]
Please help me analyse my print
I am using an Ender 3 (slightly modded, mainly direct drive). Printing with silk pla from kingroon but this happens also with other pla or pla+. Temps around 190 degree. Speed was quite slow with 60 to 100 mm/s (or even lower on first layer). I am using prusa slicer and ultlimaker cura. My printer runs on klipper on a pi 4. I have some strange waves in my print and on movements over the print the nozzle touches the layer noticeably.
Sunlu PA-GF is driving me up the wall
Creality K2 Plus G10 rigid steel build plate 0.6 mm nozzle Flow Ratio - 0.882 Pressure Advance - 0.025 Temperature - 280C Bed Temp - 100C All Fans are off Heated chamber set to 60C Filament dried at 85C for 24+ hours Print Speeds First Layer - 30 mm/s All other layers - 50 mm/s Could this be a z offset or bed leveling issue? Some areas on the print have perfect smoosh, not so good smoosh and too much smoosh despite not changing anything mid print. submitted by /u/TooBoppity [link] [comments]
Holes forming over supports when using petg
Hi, i could use some help. Im using a k2 plus, and have nptcbeen having problems untill recently. My prints keep having these holes from over my supports when using Petg. Ive tried messing with a few different settings including slowing it down, and done a bit of googleing but nothing seems to be working. Any help would be appreciated. submitted by /u/canadiansnow038 [link] [comments]
Prusa Screw and Nut
Does anyone here have any knowledge of this model: https://preview.redd.it/i4cjhkwbj9vh1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b5e2e1318115de8e0910847a0210c5a3f72541d8 I'm trying to design and print a longer version of the female threads to use inside of a block. I measure the major diameter of the thread to be 35mm. The thread pitch appears to be 3.75mm. The standard pitch for a coarse M35 screw is 3.5mm so this must be a custom size optimized for printing. It does print and work very well.
Taking the plunge!
I got into 3D printing last summer when I came into a bit of money and decided to purchase the X1C from Bambu Labs. It had good reviews and Bambu Labs seemed to be the most user friendly option for absolute beginners like myself. After my print needs increased later that fall, I purchased a second, more economical, P1S from them. It’s been a great learning experience, but as nearly 100% of my prints are multicolor, I have NEVER felt good about the sheer amount of waste the AMS/Purge system create.
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